December 23, 2025
Up with Marsala
Italy’s Three Wine Musketeers rescue a corner of Sicily
Where have all the good people with good ideas gone? Suffice it to say that there’s a lot of awful human displays and ignorance that fills our daily news feeds.
So in these dark times — especially in end-of-year holidays that speak to our humanity — stories that are positive, creative and uplifting become particularly precious.
Pietro Russo in Officina's "tasting room"
The most inspiring story I’ve encountered lately is set on the windy shores of Marsala, on the northwest coast of Sicily, where a trio of friends — Italy’s first and only Masters of Wine — are collaborating on a wine to help revive a corner of a once-great appellation: Marsala, the sherry like fortified wine that’s gone into decline since World War II.
Harvest 2025 (from left) Pietro Russo, Gabriele Gorelli, Andrea Lonardi. Photo © Walter Parrinello
The three are saving old, endangered vineyards just steps from the salt pans of Marsala and its crystalline waters to create dry whites that are new for the region, and just might save it.
It’s a beautiful story of friends, with great images. Read about it in the latest Robert Camuto Meets… at winespectator.com