Wine after Google

David Drummond grew up in the 1970s as the African-American kid in a Sicilian-American neighborhood in Monterrey California, and there developed his first taste for the Italian flavors.

Decades later in 2018 after a brilliant career and cashing out for his retirement as Google’s Chief Legal Officer, Drummond bought his dream ranch in Sonoma’s Russian River Valley — 500 acres of land with a 70-acre vineyard planted to Pinot Noir, Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Then things got interesting.

Drummond, who had become a passionate aficionado of northeastern Italian wines, met Sam Bilbro (of Idlewild wines) a grower/producer who is obsessed with northwestern Italy’s Piedmont and propagating its native vines in Northern California.

In the last four years, the pair have regrafted about 50 acres to more than 40 varieties with an emphasis on Northern Italy and Alpine France. From Friuli’s white Ribolla Gialla and Tocai Friulano to Piedmont varieties from Nebbiolo to Grignolino and Freisa to California’s first known Timorasso.

The first wines for Drummond’s Comunità label are out. To me this is more than a passing geeky interest, but a win-win-wine on both sides of the Atlantic.

Before Prohibition, California had a much more varied and interesting winescape than recent decades with their focus on Cabernet Sauvignon and a handful of other French blockbuster grapes. Much of that legacy was Italian and included what are considered niche grapes today.

Restoring that diversity is good for California wine country and consumers. Having these grapes planted and turned into wines in California will contribute to their deserved renown and gives a boost to Italian wine culture.

Read about Drummond-Bilbro’s project in the latest Robert Camuto Meets… at winespectator.com.

While you’re at it, read about the Anarchist-turned-winemaker Bruno De Conciliis who has rocked Southern Italy winemaker over nearly 30 years from his home in Cilento.