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July 11, 2024

How deep can sake get?

On a trip to Kyoto, discovering the secrets of the “water”
Masuda and Robert Camuto

Masuda and me in his family brewery founded in 1675

On a trip to Japan, the family and I drank two kinds of sake: good sake and really good (even mind-blowing) sake with local flavor.

We sampled the latter at a Fushimi / Kyoto brewery called Masuda Tokubee Shoten, a pioneer for high-end sake.

The Fushimi locale is prized for sake because of the quality of its ground water that filters through the nearby Monoyama hills and is used in rice plantations. In other words, the water the rice plant absorbs effects the taste of the grain, and ultimately, the sake.

“Rice is important,” says Tokubee Masuda the 14th generation here, “but water is even more important.”

Masuda works in the steps of his father who in the 1960s revived Japan’s traditional lightly strained and fizzy nigori “cloudy” sake that had gone extinct with modern filtering.

He continues to work traditionally on an artisanal scale – while taking things like aging sake to new levels. Years and even decades in the cellar in porcelain casks bring out deep sherry-like flavors and umami unlike anything I’ve ever experienced.  

His goal: “I want to show the world that sake can be this ultra-premium…that it’s not just Romanée-Conti.”

Masuda

Masuda in his sake aging loft

jugs of aging sake

A speaker plays strains of a Chinese Erhu to jugs of aging sake

To get deeper into sake, check out the latest Robert Camuto Meets… at winespectator.com