A well-dressed Sicilian

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Salvatore Geraci is one of the world’s most well-tailored winemakers.

With his soft-shouldered suits from Naples and handmade shoes and shirts from London, the 60-year-old architect and wine producer is also one of Sicily’s most colorful characters.

“Coco Chanel said, ‘Fashion fades. Style endures,’” says Geraci in his new “garage-wine” vineyard in Passopisciaro, on Mount Etna’s north face. “I want to make wines of style.”

It is a compelling scene: Geraci waxing about style, smartly attired as a country gentleman in an old double-breasted blazer, while in the middle of dilapidated vineyards on Etna’s rustically terraced volcanic slopes.

But it makes sense. Just as Geraci’s career in architecture has been based on restoring old neglected buildings, his career in wine is all about stylish wines from old neglected terroirs and vineyards.

“I like things that are a bit fané,” he says, using the French word for “faded.”

As owner of the Messina-area cult winery Palari, Geraci helped revive northeastern Sicily’s tiny historic Faro appellation, where winegrowing had nearly become extinct. Since the 1990 vintage, he has made Palari Faro with a blend of local grapes, including Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio and Nocera.

Then in 2014, in his 25th vintage in Faro, Geraci bought 10 acres of organic vineyards on Etna from Sicilian folksinger Pippo Barrile...read the full blog at winespectator.com