Letter from Europe: Low Hype Barolo

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"No photo!" Giuseppe Cavallotto waved me off as I aimed my iPhone in his direction.

He stood atop of one of Barolo's most gorgeous vineyards, his family's monopole Bricco Boschis, a steep, sunny, concave hillside that stretches below the family home and winery in Castiglione Falletto.

Giuseppe, the middle of three siblings who run Tenuta Cavallotto, said posing for photographs was for his younger brother, Alfio. Then I asked Giuseppe his age. "That doesn't matter," he responded, and after an awkward silence added, "I'm more-or-less 46—it's no secret."

The low-key, sometimes shy, nature of the Cavallottos partly explains why they aren't better known. Among traditional Barolo producers, Cavallotto has never achieved the cult status of firebrands Bartolo Mascarello or Giuseppe Rinaldi. Nor have they had public, internecine feuds like other local families that split up over winemaking principles. Yet Cavallotto deserves attention on several counts, not the least of which is a solid line of wines that has hit its stride in the past two decades. Read the full blog @ Wine Spectator Letter from Europe